Відео

can you share the cad I have a OM-2

Could be possible to machine directly into a epoxy brick so you dont have to create a positive? great content! My grandfather had a big old injection machine and some clients brought him bronze molds. Less durability but way cheaper too.

Great job sir

❤❤❤❤

Awesome video

Hey like the videos, I make watches and small parts all products no job shop. I have a hass OM-2 a Tormach MX and EMCO lasers and other goodies. I wanted to make sure you were aware of an issue I painfully just found out about on my Haas OM, as you know it came with a battery-powered grease. the grease they used has an issue of gelling up and clogging lines. and then it ends up bursting a line and then NO fittings get lubed. I had my X screw start making clicking sounds in one direction. I did some inspections and found about 3 pounds of grease on my Z column getting pushed out of a burst line.. I had bought the om used and due to the color of grease I could tell this had happened years before I got it. needless to say, ball screws are being reground and balled...there was an update for it but my Haas LDO never told me even on year check-ups... So I'm just letting you know to check for the updated grease system and make sure everything is getting lubed..Pull your way covers and check. I'm converting mine to an oil system to make sure no grease clogging happens again

JOHN love you alot and grateful that you created this video for unpriviledged students like me who cannot afford heavy tuitions fees in an expensive cities. Thank you a lot. May GOD BLESS YOU.

you got incredible skills, but its strange you built a watch that says made in Italy with a Chinese movement and you didn't make the case in Italy either. but good job man, you do amazing work. love the content no dial not cool

bruh, put coolant into the coolant and why, for the love of god, are you blasting the top of the endmill?

Pretty cool stuff! Any suggestions on where to get the plastic pellets?

Haas vf6 parameter 57 - common switch 1 error. Can you help me fixes that errors?

Do you have problems with coolant collecting under the covers? It looks like there's a gap between the tool setter base and the vise.

Have you explored making metal composite pellets?

Nice lighting.

nice. watching this at work.

Hey like the videos, I make watches and small parts all products no job shop. I have a hass OM-2 a Tormach MX and EMCO lasers and other goodies. I wanted to make sure you were aware of an issue I painfully just found out about on my Haas OM, as you know it came with a battery-powered grease. the grease they used has an issue of gelling up and clogging lines. and then it ends up bursting a line and then NO fittings get lubed. I had my X screw start making clicking sounds in one direction. I did some inspections and found about 3 pounds of grease on my Z column getting pushed out of a burst line.. I had bought the om used and due to the color of grease I could tell this had happened years before I got it. needless to say, ball screws are being reground and balled...there was an update for it but my Haas LDO never told me even on year check-ups... So I'm just letting you know to check for the updated grease system and make sure everything is getting lubed..Pull your way covers and check. I'm converting mine to an oil system to make sure no grease clogging happens again

You may want to revisit your conclusions regarding use of plastic molds. Bulk filament products containing up to 30% aluminum particulate will likely ameliorate many of the issues that differentiated aluminum-milled vs additive-plastic mold based injection molding techniques.

Question can I buy a injection molding machines from the states

I LOVE seeing how plastic goods are made. There's a beauty in creating something useful but aesthetically pleasing.

Can i know what is the cnc machine name?

P1S is a good choice, except for following: Tough to go over 100C bed temp. Printing with CF nylon, PC is difficult. Does not have hardened nozzle or extruder gear(upgradeable though), mainly useful for abrasives CF, magnetic PLA etc. No lidar/camera for flow calibration for every print. Also has lower rez camera for live view. The display is monochrome and not touch sensitive. Also has plastic side covers instead of sheet metal.

where is the file or location on how you printed the ams extender that's on top of the p1s.

This is amazing. I bought one of these. The cost of making a mold like this is a question I see a lot and would also like to see answered. I’ve seen a lot of various pricing online and it’s a little confusing.

would like to see a comparison on speed and print quality of your old and new 3d printer!

You will thoroughly enjoy the p1s with the ams its a great setup especially for the casual user

Interesting. Very nice work.

I didn't realize how clever the refill is. Good thing I didn't throw away my used rolls. I switched to other brands, but this might make me go back to the bambu filament.

I purchased the A1 + AMS Lite at the beginning of the month and absolutely I love it. Compared to my previous Anet A8s and Ender 3 it's a night and day difference. I really want to print ASA so I made a setup in a closet with a dehumidifier, humidity/temperature monitor and filament dryer. Depending on my results I may get a P1S in the future, but the price gap is large imo.

Your video came up in my feed this morning ☕ and it answered so many questions on the AMS etc.. just about to place my P1s order - Thank You

Did you ever get the Arburg c4 working? Looking forward to updates because I have such a machine that I would like to update.

I just got a P1S combo and am enjoying it so far. Significantly better experience than the Ender 3 I got a few years ago.

I recently bought the P1S too after some years with a couple of Ender 3s. Like you, I'm getting great prints. But I'm curious as to why you don't want the cabinet closed off to outside air while printing PLA. I keep the top on and the door shut whether I'm printing PLA or PETG.

My issue with the AMS is that it's kind of wasteful on filament if you multicolor print, but a lot of community work is being put into designing "press molds" where you warm up the PLA purges in a junk toaster oven, roll it into a ball, and stick it into a mold you press by hand or in a vice. I do use the AMS for tear-away supports where the interface material between the support and the part is a plastic that sticks when hot, but falls off when cold. You still have to be selective so that you're not wasteful but I find the right applications to yield flawless results.

Does the AMS system have a filament dryer built in ??? What I hate about my current printer is I have to remove the filament after each use and wrap them up to make sure they don't absorb too much moisture.

I love this channel; more cnc videos please.

John, i don’t see you as a multi color filament for the sake of aesthetics kind of guy. I could see your use case for the AMS would be using water soluble support filament or replicating over molding by experimenting with combining different types of filament

What!? You switched to injection moulding after got bored with 3D printing? I thought you were doing injection moulding your whole life. I don't know what gave me that feeling but you seem like a dude that's been in the biz for a long time :) And 3D printing is not that old I guess, but what is time anyway...

Do you have to buy Bambu filament?

I just ordered my third Bambu printer today. I have two X1C's and a P1S. They are work horses and have thousands of hours on them printing mostly ABS/ASA.

Thanks, John. I'm looking at various printers to replace my current Creality and this has been very informative. 👍👍

Not sure if this was perfect timing or absolutely awful timing. I've been looking at the X1C the last few days and wondering whether I should pull the trigger.. Can't say I'm less motivated to spend money now.. :) Hope you'll enjoy your P1S!

John, did you need to replace either of the solenoids (clamp or injector)? I need to replace one on my C4B...

Great video. I would add 4 3/8" -16 flat headed bolts thru the back side of the mold. One at each corner. Put mold release on the bolts before threading them in then tighten them well. Before you add the epoxy making sure you put more mold release on the whole cavity. They should protrude 2/3 to 3/4 of the way into the cavity area. . Putting a small relief angle on the sides will also help releasing the mold knowing the bolts will hold it in place. Without the relief angle you may want to make the bolts captive that way helping to push the mold out when not needed. Hope that helps.

Great Video and Excellent descriptions. I would like to see more details for how you generated the belt in your 3d model. Is this described somewhere else? Also - a definition of what you mean by BeltDiameter and BeltCenterToCenter would be good. I'm trying to do the same model as yours except for two pulleys with different number of teeth.

Mold polishing need a lot of patience, avoiding the edges of the cavity to get dull is utmost important. A 2000 grit of sandpaper put under a small hard wooden stick or bamboo, formed like a chisel would make a mirror finished. Followed by diamond paste 1 micron on a felt. I'm a plastic injection moldmaker for 20 years.

You did a good job, I'm also a plastic injection moldmaker, I worked 17 years in Saudi Arabia. I did different mold steels like 1.2080, 1.2016 which were also called stainless steel due high chrome contents. Some aluminium ones for blow moulding and thermoforming molds. For cosmetics molds, they required glass finished. For that kind of work that you did, you to make a small wooden stick formed like a chisel. A 30 or 45 degrees angle will do or what is comfortable to you. You put the sandpaper 400 grit under the wooden stick. Move forward and backward and put WD40 or any light oil will do. Then 800 to 1000 grit to finish, another 1200 grit would be better. Thanks bro.,,. good luck to your UA-cam channel.

Mold inject a Glock P80 and take it to the gun buy back. Boom profit.

Can you apply 2 textures in the same mould without putting a departing line, meaning a smooth transition from one texture to the other?

Can you please share where you bought the tap?

I think… I recognize the the panel…. but the ASI markings and spoiler labeling is throwing me off a bit…. It’ll be like pulling off a bandaid… but worth it in the end. Good luck with all that wire “nesting” A man with the patience of Jobe you are. ;)